# Day 12 - Matcha do about nothing ## Tea time One thing that Sophia really wanted to experience on this trip was a traditional Japanese tea ceremony. The most recommended place for visitors to do this in Kyoto is Maikoya at Gion Kiyomizu, where guests are dressed in kimonos, and led through the tea ceremony process. We were uncertain at first about whether it would be appropriate for us to don kimonos, but all of our research showed that most Japanese are pleased for foreigners to take an interest in their traditional dress, and we felt confident that our doing so would be coming from a place of appreciation and education. Upon arriving, we were allowed to select our kimonos from an array of designs, and were led toward two side gardens to take pictures in our outfits. Then we were brought to the ceremony room where we were seated on cushions atop the traditional tatami mat floor, and taught about some of the history and philosophies behind the tea ceremony. Our hostess walked us through the purification of the tools, a meditation, and then finally the making of the tea! While traditionally the host or hostess would prepare tea for everyone, we were each given the opportunity to mix our own matcha to learn the proper techniques using a special bamboo whisk. Before drinking the tea one eats sweets to balance out the bitterness of the matcha—typically yatsuhashi (thin triangular rice flour pastries mixed with cinnamon and filled with red bean paste) and/or small sugar candies. The ceremony as demonstrated by our hostess was a thing of beauty to observe as she moved with gentle and precise well-rehearsed movements. The tea was smooth and delicate, and the hint of cinnamon in our yatsuhashi was so delicious! We really loved our experience here, and would definitely recommend it to anyone visiting Kyoto. ![[day 12 - 3.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 4.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 2.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 5.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 6.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 8.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 7.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 1.jpg]] ## Floating down the river Next we made our way back out toward Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, where we had booked seats on the Sagano Romantic Train—a sightseeing train with an open-air car that snakes along the Katsura River past cherry-tree-covered hillside. Our train experience was only so-so. The ride lasted only about twenty minutes long, and while the views were beautiful, Manu’s seat position meant he really had to crane his neck to see. ![[day 12 - 9.jpg]] It was more than worth it, however, as a means to arrive at our next activity: the Hozugawa River Boat Ride. The small boat was operated by three convivial men (one on the rudder, one to row, and one to guide the boat by pushing off with a long bamboo stick) who despite their limited English, did a fantastic job of pointing out items of interest and cracking entertaining jokes along the way. The hour-and-a-half journey provided unlimited beautiful scenery, great birding, and even a few fun adventures through small river rapids! ![[day 12 - 10.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 11.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 14.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 13.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 12.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 15.jpg]] The cherry on top was a concession boat that hitched itself to ours toward the end, which was grilling up all sorts of meat and seafood on their boat, and offering several other refreshments. We decided to try the mitarashi dango—a popular skewered snack of grilled mochi balls doused in a sweet soy sauce. The whole ride was a total blast, and another top recommendation from our Kyoto itinerary! ![[day 12 - 16.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 17.jpg]] ![[day 12 - 18.jpg]] ## Treats aplenty Having learned our lesson, we headed out for dinner early this evening to beat the lines. We were able to be seated quickly at a highly-recommended Ramen restaurant called Kyoto Engine Ramen offering both meat and vegan options. They treated us to glasses of nice sake and a taste of Japanese plum wine as a honeymoon gift! Our bowls of ramen, which had unusually thick broth, were tasty, but we both agreed they were on par with some ramen we’ve had in the U.S., and the counter was missing the mixed tray of yummy condiments one typically finds at Ramen bars in Japan. ![[day 12 - 19.jpg]] We couldn’t resist stopping in at a doughnut shop we’d noticed on our way to dinner that serves strawberries and cream doughnut sandwiches in a space created by a famous interior designer. Manu reports enjoying his dessert, and would eat it again if offered one. We made one final stop at a confectioner to buy a selection of yatsuhashi for a vegan treat after we enjoyed them so much at the tea ceremony including traditional cinnamon, black sesame, and strawberry flavors! ![[day 12 - 20.jpg]]