# Day 22 - A city of many cultures ## Spec-tacular bridge We began our first full day in Nagasaki along the Nakashima River. The river is home to Meganebashi (Spectacles Bridge), one of Japan’s oldest stone arch bridges, which received its nickname due to the illusion of eyeglasses visible where the bridge meets its reflection in the water. ![[photos/day 22 - 3.jpg]] Within the river walls are hidden heart-shaped stones that are meant to bring anyone who finds one eternal love. Naturally we had to seek one out and leave a small offering! ![[photos/day 22 - 4.jpg]] We walked past a few other cutesy tourist sites, such as a train-shaped building and a cat shrine, which we were disappointed to discover was more of a gift shop than a shrine. ![[photos/day 22 - 1.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 2.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 5.jpg]] ## Ascension We then walked up a steep hillside toward the historic European section of Nagasaki, but before heading to the main attractions, it was time for some coffee. While researching the trip, Sophia had found a sweet looking coffee shop that we were determined to visit, which was easier said than done. The neighborhood we found ourselves in was comprised of several narrow pathways and staircases connecting the houses that zigzagged their way up the hillside. We wandered quite a bit, doing our best to follow the directions of Google Maps reviewers who had left tips about how to find the elusive coffee house. We were finally successful, and it was well worth the effort! ![[photos/day 22 - 6.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 7.jpg]]![[photos/day 22 - 8.jpg]] The shop is located on the second floor of an old traditional Japanese house, and is run by the sweetest woman, who presumably lives below. We removed our shoes and walked up the stairs to the most charming room imaginable. One immediately feels that they are in their grandmother’s home, and the stunning view and nostalgic music were completely enchanting. ![[photos/day 22 - 10.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 9.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 11.jpg]] After some patient communication via our translation app, the proprietress generously made Sophia a custom off-menu vegan flatbread, while Manu enjoyed some exceptional and beautifully presented cheesecake with his coffee. ![[photos/day 22 - 12.jpg]] ## Picturesque gardens We could have happily stayed all afternoon, but with much left to see, we thanked our hostess and set off toward Glover Garden. When Japan concluded its era of seclusion in the mid 1800’s, Nagasaki became a popular destination for Western merchants to make their fortune. Glover Garden is an open-air museum of sorts housing several of the mansions where these merchants made their homes with their families. We learned a lot about the people who lived there, their industries, and how they integrated and coexisted with the Japanese locals. We were somewhat surprised to discover that many meaningful personal bonds were formed between the two with mutual respect and friendship. One of the mansions, named Glover House, and its owner, are rumored to be the inspiration for Puccini’s opera Madama Butterfly. Though there’s no hard data to corroborate this theory, the museum still pays tribute with statues of Butterfly and Puccini in its gardens. ![[photos/day 22 - 14.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 13.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 15.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 16.jpg]] Our last stop within the boundaries of the museum was the Traditional Performing Arts Center. This building is devoted to the traditional performances carried out during the Nagasaki Kunchi Festival, which has taken place in Nagasaki for around 400 years, many involving large wooden boats, dragons, and more. Each district within Nagasaki has their own unique performance that has been passed down for hundreds of years, and the communities spend a ton of time and effort coming together to keep their district’s traditions alive. The festival culture is something we really admire and envy about Japan. After a quick stop for a crepe and some unusual soy-based amazake, we walked into the Inori Hill Picture Book Museum, which itself looks like it belongs in a fairytale. The museum displays original artwork by illustrators of picture books, and we thoroughly enjoyed seeing the fanciful drawings and paintings. ![[photos/day 22 - 18.jpg]] ![[photos/day 22 - 17.jpg]] ## Championing champon For dinner we ventured into Nagasaki’s historic Chinatown for a Chinese/Japanese fusion dish that’s unique to Nagasaki. The dish in question is called champon, a pork and seafood noodle soup, and Manu found it very delicious. The only vegan-friendly item on the menu was a sweet almond-flavored silken tofu that tasted like creamy marzipan, which totally delighted Sophia! It wasn’t much food, however, which called for one last konbini dinner. ![[photos/day 22 - 19.jpg]] Once night had fallen, we caught a bus to the base of the Inasayama mountain and scenic ropeway. During the quiet ride in the gondola, we suddenly noticed a heart appear in the middle of the city! At the top we were treated to a 360 degree view, and we made sure to try to pick out the heart amidst the sprawling city scenery (visible in the photo below!). ![[photos/day 22 - 20.jpg]] After a long day of hilly exploring we were more than ready to relax in our hotel’s special rooftop onsen looking out onto the deep night sky.