# Day 4 - Exploring the neighborhoods
## Time for a rest
Tokyo was storming heavily this morning, but thankfully it had no impact on our plans, which were all indoors. After another delicious breakfast at the hotel, we got to work filming an audition tape for a role Sophia was called back for (the callback is taking place in Seattle while we are away, so they’re allowing her to submit virtually).
Next we treated ourselves to a morning at the hotel fitness center and spa. We were amazed to discover that the hotel provided absolutely everything for their guests: full exercise outfits including socks and shoes, swimsuits and caps, robes, and more. After a swim in the pool, we were so excited to have our first experience with a quintessential Japanese tradition: communal baths! The Japanese have their own system for bathing, in which one scrubs off in a seated shower before sinking into the marvelously hot, large shared bath (separated by gender). The spa at our hotel was fully outfitted with a steam room, dry sauna, hot bath, and cold bath. After walking 20 miles (32 kilometers) in our first two days and still battling some lingering jet lag, this was the ultimate treat. We left thoroughly revived!
## Fine coffee and vintage clothes
By the time we finished up at the spa, the clouds had magically parted, leaving behind a perfect sunny day. We ventured out to a neighborhood slightly farther afield called Shimokitazawa—the hipster mecca of Tokyo. It is most known for its secondhand clothing shops, which appear everywhere by the dozen from top to bottom. Our first stop was Bear Pond Espresso, a tiny coffee shop known for creating a unique layered espresso drink called the “dirty”. While Manu’s top pick for Tokyo coffee still goes to Glitch, he really enjoyed the refreshing “dirty”, and is eager to try recreating it at home.
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Next up was trying some delicious treats at a bakery called Universal Bakes. Every item was tasty and unique, but our favorites were a donut filled with raspberry and white bean paste, and curry bread (a bread roll stuffed with Japanese veggie curry, coated in breadcrumbs, and deep fried). These were honestly some of the best baked goods we’ve ever had, and we’re dreading not being able to get them at home. We really loved this neighborhood, whose quiet narrow streets were full of an eclectic array of character-filled establishments, from a flower shop that also offered haircuts to tiny wooden restaurants with no more than four seats.
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## Harajuku
The next neighborhood we explored was Harajuku, where we went directly to the famous Takeshita Street. Once known as THE place to hang out and shop for participants in Tokyo’s iconic youth fashion subcultures, Takeshita Street is now mostly a tourist attraction featuring all things cutesy. From the fun hair accessories to the street food, nearly everything sold here is either pink or rainbow, with the occasional punk twist. The street itself might just be the most crowded place in Tokyo, but all you have to do is step off into one of the many little alleys, and you may find yourself completely alone. We completed our visit to the area with a stroll along Tokyo’s premiere high-end shopping street, Omotesando (which we both agreed felt remarkably like being in Beverly Hills).
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## Temples & Magic
Our walk to dinner lead us through Tokyo’s most well known temple, Sensō-ji. The area surrounding the temple is covered in stalls selling tchotchkes and street food, which are touristy but fun to walk through nonetheless. The temple and associated buildings were gorgeous all lit up at night.
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Our restaurant reservation for dinner was at an eatery that’s a little… different. At Veganic Monkey Magic, situated inside a traditional Japanese inn, guests are served a fully vegan chef’s-choice tasting menu by a woman dressed in a monkey costume and makeup. Monkey-san, as the chef calls herself, was whimsical and lovable, and served us a series of special dishes full of rare, thoughtfully sourced ingredients that were simple yet exceptional. As an added bonus, Monkey-san had a box of adorable handmade ceramic chopstick holders that we got to select from to use during the meal. Manu chose a mushroom, while Sophia opted for a little sheep, at which she squealed, “kawaii!” (cute!).
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