# Day 8 - Time travel ## Iconic views If there’s one image the world associates with Japan, it is the view of the beautiful red Chureito Pagoda looking out over Mt. Fuji, and today we were determined to get that view. The Kami (Japanese deities) seemed to smile on us as we woke up to a cloudless sky (frequent fog makes Mt. Fuji’s visibility infamously elusive). However, when our ryokan kindly made Sophia a veganized version of their elaborate multi-course breakfast, we decided we could not refuse their generous hospitality, and got off to a later start than we’d originally planned. While we were on somewhat of a tight timeline, we arrived with what felt like enough time. We sprinted up the mountain and reached the pagoda in only ten minutes, but our optimistic vision was shattered when we discovered that while we had already made it to the pagoda itself, there was a separate line with a forty-five minute wait to reach the platform that gives you the iconic view. Though we couldn’t deny our disappointment, seeing the Chureito Pagoda up close, and the accompanying stellar view of Mt. Fuji still made our efforts worthwhile. ![[day 8 - 1.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 2.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 3.jpg]] After a complicated four-train journey, we arrived in the quaint onsen town of Hakone. The town evokes an immediate feeling of serenity, and provides no shortage of quintessentially Japanese scenes. The short walk to our ryokan wove through cherry trees in full fluffy bloom, charming red bridges, and lush green mountainside. Though onsens are typically communal, we booked a room with a private open-air bath on its balcony—but with a few sightseeing adventures ahead, the onsen would have to wait. ![[day 8 - 4.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 5.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 6.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 7.jpg]] ## Twisted streets, dirt floors, and cobblestones We hopped on a bus that twisted and spiraled farther and farther up the mountain, revealing several vibrantly colored shrines and breathtaking nature. Eventually we arrived at Amazake Chaya, a historic tea house cradled into the mountainside that serves amazake: a traditional sweet Japanese beverage made from fermented rice and served hot. We were instantly transported through time as we stepped under the building’s thatched roof onto the dirt floor, and were greeted by the smell of smoke coming from a boiling iron pot hanging over and open fire in the middle of the room. During the Edo Period (1603-1868), the infamously grueling route through Hakone was dotted with several of these types of lodges offering shelter and warming refreshments to weary travelers, however Amazake Chaya is the only one that remains today. We took our seats on the floor of a tatami mat platform, where we were served an earthy herbal tea and of course, the amazake. While the experience of amazake is entirely unique, it can best be described as a cross between sake and rice pudding in both taste and texture. The delectable hot viscous liquid was a soothing reprieve from the chilly mountain air. ![[day 8 - 8.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 9.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 10.jpg]] Fully contented, we set off on foot along The Old Tokaido Road. This ancient trail gained importance in the 1500’s when a new government capital was established in Edo (now called Tokyo), as it was the main route for people traveling between Edo and Kyoto, which remained the main hub for culture and imperial power. The forest echoed with intricate birdsongs we’d never heard before (which Manu eventually identified as Coal Tits and Chinese Hwamei). The path was steep and paved with jagged, unevenly laid stones. We were grateful for our modern sneakers as we imagined how treacherous the journey would have been for those traveling hundreds of years ago through rain and snow. ![[day 8 - 11.jpg]] ## Torii Our short forty-five minute stint along The Old Tokaido Road brought us to Hakone Shrine. ![[day 8 - 12.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 13.jpg]] Hakone Shrine is home of the instantly-recognizable Heiwa no Torii (Torii of Peace). This stunning red gate rising out of Lake Ashi was built in 1952 to commemorate the Treaty of San Francisco that ended the Allied occupation of Japan. As expected there was a short queue, but with two-and-half-hours before dinner at our ryokan, we confidently went to the back. Sadly the line was filled with wannabe influencers who stood and posed for hundreds of photos with no regard for others, so while it should have only taken a maximum of 20 minutes for us to reach the front of the line, we waited for an hour and fifteen minutes, at which point the sun had set. We still took a few photos as mementos, albeit dimly lit ones, and caught the bus back to the ryokan, shivering in the evening chill. ![[day 8 - 14.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 15.jpg]] There is no such thing as a simple meal at a ryokan. At a spacious low table in a lovely private wooden compartment, we were brought twelve courses, most comprised of several elements, with a focus on fresh seafood and seasonal produce. The chef was unable to adapt the meal to be fully vegan, so we pooled our meals together and divided the contents between vegan and non-vegan. ![[day 8 - 17.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 18.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 20.jpg]] ![[day 8 - 21.jpg]] After a deeply relaxing soak in the 107.6F (42C) water of our onsen while gazing out onto the twinkling town below, we drifted happily asleep.