# Day 9 - High-speed trains & high-class cocktails ## Taking a break When Sophia put together the details of the itinerary for this trip, she packed in everything we could possibly see and do if we really pushed ourselves, with the idea that we would pare it down on days we needed a change of pace. Today was one of those days. While a ride across Lake Ashi on a pirate ship and a trip up a cable car to a volcanic valley definitely sounded like fun, the morning rain and the siren song of our private onsen were enough to make us say, “next time”. We had a restful morning of soaking in the bath and lounging in our hotel's cherry blossom yukatas. ![[day 9 - 1.jpg]] ![[day 9 - 2.jpg]] ## Raw power After checking out of our ryokan, we made our way to Odawara Station, where we would finally experience the ultimate form of travel Japan (if not the world) has to offer: riding the Shinkansen! There are no words to describe the feeling of electricity coursing through your body as the Shinkansen trains—which reach top speeds of 200mph/320kmh—scream through the station. We found our seats among the bento-toting passengers, and we were off! ![[day 9 - 3.jpg]] ![[day 9 - 4.jpg]] A slightly longer stop at Kyoto Station allowed us time to hunt for bentos of our own. There’s an incredible array of options for travel food in the station, and we even found a vegan box for Sophia with the help of our good friend Google Translate to read ingredients labels. As the train rolled closer to Nara, our next destination, we were captivated by the changing landscape and architecture. Large modern buildings gave way to enchanting old wooden houses with well-kept gardens, and we knew we were about to enter somewhere very special. ![[day 9 - 5.jpg]] ## A rainy day in Nara In Japan’s early days, the nation’s capital would simply be whichever city the imperial family lived in. In the year 710 CE, however, Nara (Heijokyo at the time) was established as the first permanent capital, lasting until 784 CE. Accordingly, the city has a very historic feel—buildings are lower and more traditional, and temples and shrines abound. We walked through the narrow streets, glistening with rain, and settled into our accommodation for a chill afternoon of laundry, catching up on these posts, and finishing the season finale of The Bachelor (you know, to balance out all the culture we’ve taken in in the last week-and-a-half). ![[day 9 - 7.jpg]] ![[day 9 - 6.jpg]] After being treated to several incredible but wildly filling kaiseki (traditional Japanese multi-course meals) in the past few days, we found ourselves ready for a brief departure from Japanese cuisine. The Nepalese restaurant we’d planned on visiting being closed for a private holiday, we were happy to find a Chinese restaurant called China Dining Hiten that just so happened to have a separate vegan menu! ## It feels good to be on top As much as we enjoyed our dinner, the real highlight of the evening was our nightcap. Nara, despite being a seemingly sleepy temple town, is actually known for being home to some of the best bartenders in the world. We landed on visiting Lamp Bar, a cozy speakeasy-esque establishment oozing with refinement. The owner won “Bartender of the Year” at the world bartender tournament in 2015, and it is routinely ranked as one of the top bars in all of Asia. The dark wooden walls, dim lights, and antique cabinets housing an enviable collection of unique glassware all contributed to the cool yet high-end atmosphere. Lamp Bar has no menu to speak of. Guests simply express their preferences, and the highly skilled mixologists get to work crafting the perfect cocktail to suit their wishes. We ordered a whiskey drink and a gin drink each, including an out-of-this-world white negroni served to Sophia made using gin flavored with botanicals of the Japanese forest and house-made bitters of local bitter orange, topped with a smoked cypress chip. We both agreed these were the cocktails of our dreams. ![[day 9 - 11.jpg]] ![[day 9 - 8.jpg]] ![[day 9 - 9.jpg]] ![[day 9 - 10.jpg]]